Monogram & Fringe Pillows

“Not ANOTHER pillow, Laura! For the love of all that’s holy!”

Yep. Sorry.

If it’s any consolation, these are a bit more “advanced,” technically speaking.

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These pillows that came with our sofas are just blah. We’ve been updating our color scheme to include, drum roll please, blue. Never thought I’d live to see the day I’d decorate with blue as it’s my least favorite color (reminds me of winter…). But guess what? Blue can also be very SUMMER inspired.

With my DietBet winnings (yes, I met my goal!) I had some cash to burn and treated myself to a few Embroidery Fonts from Applique Market. Because I had these awesome and gynormous fonts to work with I got the idea to monogram 2 of the pillows.

Pillow 1: (The Monogram)

The very, very first thing I did was hoop the stabilizer ONLY. Then I marked my front pillow/fabric piece in the dead center.

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Using the hoop template, I made sure that the center that I marked matched up perfectly with the very, very center of the hoop template.

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It did πŸ™‚

The template matches (to scale) the same grid marks on the edit screen of the embroidery machine (at least on Janome models). Since the design you select to embroider will automatically center itself in the hoop (on your edit screen), this will give you a perfectly centered design.

I didn’t really understand this concept until pretty recently, actually. Remember my burp cloths I made a few Summers ago? The embroidery was crooked because I just “eye balled” it, hoping it would be centered. And it wasn’t 😦

Mark your fabric. Use your templates πŸ™‚

Because I didn’t hoop the fabric, there’s a risk of it shifting in the embroidery process. On the Janome machine I used there is a basting stitch function that tacks around the area of the design.

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After you do this, your fabric will be completely secure from slipping on the hoop.

Why not just hoop the stabilizer AND the fabric, Laura?Β 

I’m glad you asked πŸ™‚ Sometimes the fabric is just too darn thick (towels, fleece, etc.). Even fabric that’s super thin or stretchy or just plain difficult to work with can be an absolute chore to hoop and/or become damaged in the process. Hooping only the stabilizer will save you time, energy, and your religion. But it’s important to use the basting stitch feature when you do this.

Push the “start” button and watch your machine embroider.

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10″ font, baby! πŸ™‚

I put a very thin layer of water soluble stabilizer on the top of the fabric after I basted it. This is duck cloth, which has “gaps” between the large thread grains of the material. I didn’t want any of the satin stitching to get lost in the grains.

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“L” pillow looks a bit stiff because I left in the super thick stabilizer… Yeah, I’ll be cutting it out soon…

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Again, once I cut out the stabilizer around the “T” the pillow will smooth out. I should’ve just done that to begin with… #lazy.

Pillow 2: The Fringe

Those awesome fringe pillowsΒ were actually a bit trickier if you can believe it…

I cut out the pillow pieces like I always doΒ when I use the envelope method. So I had 3 pieces of fabric for each pillow (1 for front; 2 for back).

Once my big front piece was cut to size I pinned the fringe around the entire pillow.

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Make sure fringe is facing “in” to the pillow

Very carefully, I basted the fringe to the fabric. Luckily, when you buy fringe/trim like this at the craft store there’s a “seal” on the opposite edge of the fringe making it easier to wrangle.

After this was basted I then assembled the back pieces to the front.

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After the pillow is finished, gently pull the fringe away from the seal.

Turn the pillow cases right side out and cover your existing and totally BORING sofa pillow with it.

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This is so much better than the generic pillows we had before.

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Loki is already eyeing that trim.

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Much better.

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I even matched up the stripes πŸ˜€

Our new SUMMER blue decor is coming together.

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Thanks for suffering through yet another pillow story with me πŸ™‚

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This post does NOT contain any affiliate or sponsor links. All opinions expressed are my own.

 

 

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